Smocking a Shepherd's Shirt- Part 3

I've been musing over my smock and feeling a bit adrift since there's so much missing information in the instructions.  While I have read through the entire Alice Armes booklet a couple of times, I'm currently just working on the cutting out of the pieces and this is the list of missing information that I've compiled for this part of the process.

1. In the layout picture (diagram 1) there's no mention of gussets for the area near cuffs, but gussets are mentioned in diagram 2. 
2. As far as I can tell there are no dimensions for cuffs given anywhere.
3. So far I've not seen any depth or length of smocking on sleeves mentioned.
4. The neck opening dimensions are not given.
5. There are no dimensions for pocket flaps given, but that's fine since I'm not planning on adding pockets.
6. The diagrams are only for over-the-head smock and not coat smock despite talking about coat smock.

This has led me to  peruse the internet in search of pictures of shepherd/farmer/peasant smocks to figure out some of these details. For example, Alice Armes stated, "The base of the 'box' should be level with the under-arm seam of the sleeve, and this horizontal line should also terminate the stitchery on the tubing." I wanted to see what other smocks had done and the gusset was visible as the "under-arm seam" in a couple of the photos I found showing that part of the garment. This is the picture I drew to help with construction.

I saw quite a lot of variety of cuff width and so just decided to cut out my narrow, per Ms. Armes description, cuffs of 9" x 4.5".

Additionally I saw at least one smock that had sleeve smocking the width of the shoulder straps and a couple that were just less than the shoulder strap width. 

I'm a bit confused because I would think the smocking near the wrist would need to be wider than at the shoulders but in none of the photos I saw did it look that way. They looked to be about the same width.

Ms. Armes doesn't discuss a placket at the neck opening but in quite a few pictures it's looks like there are indeed plackets, so that's a fun choice I'll have to make at some point! She also makes nary a mention of button locations, so again to the photos and the buttons are typically at the neck, cuffs, and occasionally on the collar. Her big button concerns seem to be about using Dorset buttons, which I will not be doing.

I've cut out all my pieces following the previous post's plan with an exception for the sleeves. 

Shirt front: 21" by 36"

Shirt back: 21" by 36"

Sleeves: 2 pieces of 20" by 18"

Shoulders: 2 pieces of 8" by 6"

Collars: 2 pieces of 9" by 6"

Armpit gussets: 2 pieces of 7" by 7"

Cuffs: 2 pieces of 9" by 4.5"

 

However, I think I might need to cut out 2 more collar and cuff pieces. My current plan is to fold them because she breezily throws out the phrase "double the material" and I really don't know if that means folded or not. Here's an example: 

 

"The sleeves also are oblongs about 21" long x 18" wide, set into narrow cuff bands of double material. The back and front of the smock are connected by two shoulder straps or yokes of double material, measuring 8" to 9" from neck to shoulder and about 6" wide, according to the requirements of the wearer." 

I have plenty of fabric so that's not an issue. I might even use interfacing- quelle horreur!

 

The next step is making the "pleats" or the "tubing". Girls Own Store (or Home of Cottage Socks) started smocking the sleeves, not the front or back, and I think I'll try that as well. 

References:

Museum Crush 

From the Picture Kitchen

Poppies Kitchen